Trail Cutting and Maintenance Guidelines

Glades and Woods Cutting Practices

This section describes field practices for establishing and maintaining glades and woods lines.

Northern Hardwood Species Hierarchy

Tree species can be organized into three broad groups for the purpose of skiing and snowboarding: Highly Favored, Somewhat Favored, and Not Favored. The factors that determine the species ranking are:

• Longevity - Trees that live the longest are best.
  
  
• Growth Habit - Some trees and shrubs branch and grow in ways that inhibit human passage on skis and boards.
  
  
• Leaf Senescence - Evergreen trees, by virtue they do not drop their needles, catch and hold more snow than deciduous trees.
  
  
• Wildlife Value - Some species important food sources for wildlife.
  
  
• Aesthestics - Aesthetics can enhance the ski/ride experience, and some tree species are more attractive to the eye than others.
  
  

All species in the Not Favored catagory can be cut without much consideration other than correct identification. The choice of whether to cut individuals in the Favored species categories involves weighing the functions listed below, as well as location, form, and vigor. The ranking below is based upon experience, but should not be taken strictly as there is a lot of judgement and luck involved.

Spruce-Fir Species Equality

At upper elevations, all species are of Highly Favored because of the forest's vunerability to damage. The exception is hobblebush, which can be cut at anytime. Spruce-fir's even-aged growth regime reduces cutting decisions to binary (yes/no) based upon line location.

At mid and lower elevations, there is more flexibility as the forest is more resilient. In general, Paper Birch and Yellow Birch are more favored because they are not dominant and provide visual contrast. Balsam Fir, Red Spruce, and White Spruce are equally favored. Being tactilly softer than spruce, Balsam Fir is better for skiing and riding through. The choices on which individuals to cut in spruce-fir forests are driven by line location and soil stability, and to a lesser extent, form.

Choosing Between Individuals to Cut

The simple rule is to cut all hobblebush and stripped maple from a line. Many times a skiable/rideable line will result. In designated islands however, little should be cut, with the possible exception of an occasional robust stripped maple in order to remove its seed source.

Form and vitality are used to decide which individuals to cut among favored species. Form refers to how a tree has grown. Is the tree straight? Does it have a healthy crown? Has it been damaged by weather, disease, or ski/snowboard edges? Vitality refers to the vigor of an individual. Forest quality hinges upon the gene pool, and some individual trees grow faster and stronger than others. Individuals that are well formed and are growing vigorously should be favored over those that are having a tough time.

Finally the rhythm of the line will dictate choices. Trees that are located right where people will turn will eventually be killed. Trees should only be left solo if they are strong enough to withstand ski/board edge cuts and human collisions. Otherwise young trees should be left in groups as islands where the outer trees protect the inner trees.

Tools

Power tools such as chainsaws are necessary tools of the trade, but with the technology comes the potental for overcutting. Therefore new glades should be clearly marked prior to cutting with chainsaws. Trees to be cut should be painted, and islands clearly delineated with flagging. It is always better to be conservative and undercut because one can always return the following year and cut a little more based upon how the glade skied.

Hand tools are generally better for woods line cutting and maintenance. This is because less can be cut by hand and so the impacts are minimized. Sometimes chainsaws are needed to buck up large downed trees, but otherwise one is taking the woods out of the woods line by cutting overstory trees, which is only possible with chainsaws. Appropriate hand tools are: loppers, buck saws, and large two-handed scythes. Scythes are very effective for mowing hobblebush, saplings, and raspberries.

Cutting Tips for Glades and Woods Lines

Here is a list of do's, don't's, tips, and tricks:

• Equipment:
  • Always carry a first aid kit oriented toward blood loss control, fracture stabilization, and bee sting allergies.
  • Always keep tools sharp, and carry a few spare parts.
  • Duct tape serves both tool repair and human repair (first aid) purposes.
  • Hand scythes require periodic sharpening during a work day.
    
    
• Line Layout:
  • Always cut downhill in order to keep the line in the fall line. One can cut in small sections uphill while still progressing downhill overall.
  • Minimize or eliminate double fall line sections.
  • Use fir and spruce branches to break up sight lines. Not being able to see a long way down a line increases excitment.
  • If a section becomes constricted and narrow, follow it with a wide section for people to gain control, relax and let 'em go.
  • Search for breaks in cliff bands so people do not get perched, unwilling to jump off. Do not offer big air without an alternate route(s): People over 35 years of age, or parents of children, rarely jump off cliffs.
    
    
• Cutting:
  • Cut out all the hobblebush and stripped maple first - that may be all that is needed.
  • It is always better to undercut a new line, ski it for a season, and return to refine it.
  • Sometimes a very desireable tree impedes the ski rhythm of a woods line. Remember the number one rule is the line must ski/ride well and consider cutting it. Often there will be another tree of equal quality nearby.
  • Cut all stems close to the ground for safety reasons - Eliminate "pungie sticks".
  • Remove branches by cutting as close to the stem as possible. Partial limbs sticking out present a hazard and look threatening.
  • Hardwood branches will survive when cut a distance from the stem. When softwood branches, especially on younger trees, are partially limbed, the remaining portion will die in a year or so. Therefore remove the entire branch on softwoods, or none at all.
  • Cliff take-off zones must be very neatly cut so people are not compromised at take off. The landing zones should be relatively wide, open, free of hazards, and sloped downhill.
    
    
• Slash Disposal:
  • Dice up limbs and cut brush so it will lie close to the ground and not require piling.
  • Pile slash in holes, depressions, and against small drops to smooth out the line.
  • Pile slash on the uphill side of hazards (rocks, downed trees) so people will ride right up and over them.
  • Locate brush piles well off the line so they do not have to be moved later.
  • Do not pile brush in stream beds. Stream beds should be kept free flowing to minimize erosion risk.